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January 2008 Newsletter
Happy New Year, Groundhog Day, Elvis’ birthday and any other Hallmark occasion I may have missed. Our little email list has grown to over three hundred, three hundred and thirteen to be exact, and with December’s busy Nativity season and January’s Egypt trips it’s been a while since I was able to update you all on camel goings-on. So, here goes.
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In December, our usual Christmas work was again a success and business took us up and down Texas’ spine, Interstate 35, from Dallas/Ft. Worth to San Antonio and numerous points in between. For newcomers to this newsletter, Nativity season is when we provide camels, donkeys and occasionally sheep for church productions commemorating the birth of Jesus. The forms these productions take range from humble, static displays on church lawns to elaborate, indoor dramas, complete with scripts, blocking, flying angels, etc.
In a total of seventeen events (two nights were lost to bad weather), the camels, donkeys and borrowed sheep helped to celebrate the newborn King and created a chance for my family to spend more time together, particularly my three kids and I. Vanessa, 14, Delany, 12 and Pecos, 7 all got in the act from time to time and this year’s schedule actually allowed my wife, Trish, to only have to work one event. Home for the Holidays she was! Those of you who’ve followed these Christmas exploits for some time will undoubtedly notice the absence of any sheep-related calamities; all went perfectly.
One event, among the many, really stuck out, though. Delany and I brought two camels, three sheep and a donkey to Hillsboro, Texas, a mere thirty minutes from our farm, on a chilly, drizzly evening. The event was a Christmas parade, which ended up in the historic downtown district, at the picturesque town-square, centered around the recently renovated Hill County Courthouse.
I’d been directed by the Hillsboro Chamber of Commerce president, my contact for the event, to arrange the animals on the lawn of the Courthouse. It only took a few minutes for the thought to set in that I’d just engaged in truly subversive behavior, something perhaps worthy of a visit from the ACLU: I’d provided the backdrop for a Biblical depiction on government property!
Would Delany and I be escorted off the Courthouse lawn? Who’d take care of our animals, I feared? OK, I didn’t fear for the sheep so much, but I definitely feared for Hamar our donkey and camels Gobi and Richard. As I mentioned this to the Chamber president, the county judge who actually signed off on the event happened by. I told him how much I appreciated him allowing the display (and providing income for my family) and he said, "It’s what we need."
There was not one protestor that we encountered and, believe it or not, most folks were warm and welcoming, asking the usual litany of questions. "Where’d y’all get them things?" "Is those real camels?" Perhaps the drizzle kept the ACLU away. Perhaps the ACLU has no office in Hill County, Texas.
Big thanks to friends Kyle, Terri and Paisley Mathis, Manda Butler, Jamie Griffin, Tonja Sivils, David Laubert and my kids for all their hard work this past Christmas season.
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For the better part of January I was in Egypt/Sinai, guiding two groups. The first group had ten folks (plus Delany and me); the second was much smaller, with only two fellas. The time spent with Delany, on this, her first trip to Egypt, was magical. Seeing the trip through her eyes really made me realize how lucky I am to be able to do what I do for a living and Delany was a real trooper. She even had a sleepover with her Bedouin "sister", Noora, with whom she’s traded things, through me, for years. Not one person in the house spoke English, but Delany didn’t hesitate when I asked her if she’d like to spend the night.
Delany’s version (from her journal, unedited!): Yesterday we got to Saleh’s house and I finally met the family. Fatma is the wife of Salleman (who is Saleh’s son) who is deaf. Then Freija is the wife who is the mother of Noora who is my age. My dad thought it would be interesting if I spent the night at Noora’s house- by myself. It was extremely hard. If I had to go to the bathroom she would point me to the kitchen. If I was tired and needed a bed, she would direct me to the camel pen. I was so frustrated that I just gave up on all communication and did everything by myself. Once we woke up, we had potato mush for breakfast. Then Fatma would grab my arm and would point to a bowl of water and rag to wash my hands and face. The water was so unbelievable cold!! Then today, we hiked Colored Canyon. I saw a Russian girl wearing Prada high-heels with rhinestones on it. My dad and I thought at the same time, "Now how in the world is she supposed to hike Colored Canyon in those?" Once we got down in the valley, there was a rock that had fallen down and just sat there. I was the only one that fit through. We saw so much water and wind erosion that was over 3,000 years old!! In the rock we also saw dykes, which is lava that has risen and has fit inside a mold to form a strip of dark rock. After that, my dad and I went back to Saleh’s to give Noora some clothes and a watch. Her eyes were as wide as a soccer ball. She was so happy to have a watch that was multi-colored. Then went back to the Habiba village where we stayed near a beach that was beautiful. And I FINALLY got to take a shower today because I never had the opportunity in the last five days.
Thanks, Delany.
These trips are, if I may say so myself, very unique in the world of travel. Most of the time is spent in people’s homes, not hotels and, to quote group member Vance D., of Waco, Texas, "I’ve traveled many places, but I’ve lived in Egypt." That may be the best compliment my trips have ever been given.
Steve and Kaye, Pam and Clinton, Lynn, Mike, Barbara and Charles joined Vance and his wife Irma. Ranging in age from 12 (Delany) to 70 (Barbara), this group really was like a family. I can’t thank each of these people enough for making the trip so wonderful. It’s my goal for every guest to go home and talk about the people they met in Egypt/Sinai, rather than the Pyramids or other sites they visited. The historic sites are incredible, but imagine that something can be even more memorable. I think we succeeded.
Pam, a nurse, was kind and offered to doctor a young child’s ear when we passed through a village. She even left the supplies needed for follow up treatments. The second group had a doctor and he, Scott G., of Oklahoma, did the follow up. What a blessing these folks were. Scott and his pal Morgan were a hoot and being roughly the same age as I, we became quick friends.
In addition to his medical skills, Doctor Scott also brought his guitar (after a two-hour separation sightseeing in Amsterdam, on a nine-hour layover). You’ve never heard anything "sweeter" than one-eyed Rathie (one of my Bedouin family), strumming and caterwauling with Scott, Morgan, the other Bedouin and I clapping in "rhythm"!
I make no bones about these trips being opportunities to give to folks who are less fortunate, and my group members always rise to the occasion. Money is desperately needed in Bedouin culture (not to mention much of Egypt), so helping to create forms of sustainable income is important to me. One initiative I’m really trying to get going is to encourage Bedouin women to take the time to make handmade items for sale, preferably woven textiles with traditional Bedouin motifs. It’s very easy for the Bedouin to buy mass-produced plastic jewelry for resale and, over the course of a camel trek, my guests may each purchase fifty dollars worth of this meaningless stuff. Having gotten the word to some of the Bedouin ahead of time, there were, thankfully, a handful of handmade items available and I thank each of my guests who purchased the various bags, blankets and other items. In the future, I hope to see more of these types of items for sale.
In Cairo, Magdy and Mohamed, teenaged sons of the family we stay with, want to learn better English than their public school can provide. They buy various English/Arabic dictionaries and with this in mind, I brought along the computer-based language program, Rosetta Stone. The boys have their own computer and, in the four weeks I was there, their English improved dramatically. I know for sure that their confidence in speaking English improved, too. Usually the boys use minimal English, but this program ABSOLUTELY works! It’s the program I’ve used (among many) to improve my Arabic. I’m so proud of the boys.
Living in the capital of Egypt, Magdy and Mohamed have access to everything a city of thirty million people offers. The Bedouin, however, are not so fortunate. My Bedouin family does have a home with electricity, so it’s my goal to return with a laptop computer, loaded with Rosetta Stone’s English program. All the kids in the family have expressed a desire to speak better English, which they recognize will increase business opportunities. Huge, gigantic thanks should go out at this time to Marilyn T., of Decatur, Texas for her unsolicited donation of one hundred dollars toward this cause (more about Marilyn below). Morgan, one of the two fellas on the second group in Egypt had actually put forth the idea of asking Dell or some other computer manufacturer for a new laptop (or laptops) and I’m still considering this, but I don’t want any strings attached to the endeavor. Will update.
In Cairo, I too set about learning a new language: klak-sat. This is the "horn language" used among drivers in Egypt. You might well imagine that traffic patterns, or the lack thereof, in Egypt’s largest city could create a language and some of the "phrases" are quite colorful and shouldn’t be repeated here. There are nice things to say in klaksat, though. Two short beeps approximate the word "shu-kran" (thank you, in Arabic) and can be used if someone lets you into traffic or another driver allows you to pass. I’m told by some male drivers that three short beeps, repeated in rhythm (ba-heb-ik, ba-heb-ik), says "I love you, I love you" if you see someone of the opposite sex that you might be so inclined to say this to.
I could bore you with endless anecdotes from the trip, but let it suffice to say that the guests who came on the trip had a real impact on my "family" in Egypt/Sinai and I think the exchange was mutual. There’s not a trip that goes by that the Bedouin or the folks in Cairo don’t ask by name about previous guests and how they're doing.
*Shameless final plug for Egypt/Sinai trips: In April, the oldest son of the family we stay with in Cairo will be getting married. I’m trying to get a trip together so that I can make it to the wedding. If anyone’s interested in Egypt/Sinai for April, the itinerary will include the wedding (something that can only be described as an assault on the eyes and ears!) and, of course, the Pyramids, Egyptian Museum and other historic sites. The camel trek in Sinai among the Muzeina Bedouin can run from as few as three days/two nights to as many as you’d like. Trip prices are averaging $1950 (air not included) for a ten-day trip and itineraries are absolutely customizable. Average air from the U.S. is $1000-$1500. Call or email ASAP if anyone’s interested.
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On January 28/29, upon return from Egypt (and recovery from a scathing case of jetlag), I headed north, to Decatur, Texas to meet Marilyn T., Madolyn C. and their little camel Humphrey. Humphrey’s a ten-month old Arabian (one-hump) camel who travels, along with other animals like donkeys, chickens, reptiles and a llama named George, to retirement home communities. Marilyn, 71, says she likes to "visit the old people".
Marilyn is a real Texas treasure and I feel lucky to have gotten to spend two days with her, training her to train Humphrey. After getting to know the young camel a bit, I sized him up as a good candidate for learning how to "couche" (kneel down on command), a basic camel behavior necessary for loading of gear or mounting up in the saddle for riding. At ten months, he’s a bit young and small for riding, but we were able to fashion a Somali-style packsaddle for him from PVC pipe and a broom handle! Loaded with forty pounds of dog food, Humphrey took his load and nonchalantly sauntered off with no problem. It was decided that we’d spend the better part of the next day with him packed, led by Marilyn on a hike through her wooded property that adjoins the LBJ National Grasslands. It’s beautiful country up there.
Marilyn saddled up Fizz, her 25-year old Quarter Horse and dallied Humphrey’s lead rope around the saddle horn. Off the three of them went, through the oaks and tall grasses. Madolyn was on camera duty and I, well I guess I was there in case anything went awry. I need not worry, though. In Marilyn’s life, she’s dealt with a lot tougher stuff than a green camel and a horse that may or may not want a camel on its hind end.
A cancer survivor who’s outlived two husbands, her response to the only "incident" on the trail that morning was priceless. Following ever so closely, Humphrey’s front legs were tickled by Fizz’s tail and he kicked/jumped the tiniest bit. Fizz reacted by kicking back at Humphrey. In classic "don’t make me turn this car around" fashion, Marilyn brought the queer caravan to a halt and chided Fizz for kicking, a behavior she says is inexcusable, no matter what the cause. She then gathered up Humphrey’s lead rope, bringing his face nose to nose with her own, and said, "That goes for you, too!" Humphrey replied with a "hrumph" to which Marilyn replied, "Hrumph to you, too!" I instantly fell in love with this woman.
Before leaving, I simply mentioned the aforementioned laptop plan for my Bedouin family (during a discussion about Marilyn’s own travels in Africa and how profoundly affected she was by the locals) and she graciously donated $100 to the effort. When I say unsolicited I mean it was unsolicited and I can’t thank her enough.
What a pleasure it was to spend the two days with Marilyn and Madolyn. If you know any folks in retirement homes in North Texas, tell ‘em to keep an eye out for Humphrey!
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On January 30/31, documentary filmmakers Leah P. And Rio T., of Austin, Texas, visited the farm. Before leaving for Egypt they’d contacted me about a camel-handling course in preparation for a film they’re shooting. I have been asked to be intentionally vague in describing their project, because there is some real danger in the areas they’re intending to shoot, but I can elaborate on our time together.
A dynamic couple, Leah and Rio have documented troubled regions around the world (including the U.S.) and Rio spent the bulk of the time with the camels, while Leah filmed. On the first day I instructed Rio on how to hobble his camel for grazing, medical treatment, etc, along with some instruction working with donkeys, the hardest working animal on the planet and something I’m certain they’ll be dealing with at some point. On day two, we spent some time learning camel packing techniques specific to the area they’ll be traveling, but inordinately high winds led me to abandon the thought of taking the camels out, fully laden for our day’s ride. Instead, we unloaded the bulky packs and took camels Ibrahim and Richard out for the day into the cattle pastures behind our humble farm, saddled and carrying minimal gear.
Rio’s experience with horses really translated well to working with the camels and once we got away from the barns (and herd-bound attraction of Richard, 12 and Ibrahim, 5, to the other camels), I had Rio mount up in the saddle. While the high winds certainly made the filming dramatic, all our tall winter grasses swaying in submission to the strong, south wind, communication was minimal. Ibrahim, tied to Richard primarily as company, was no problem and I intended on using him to carry home some firewood. I abandoned this effort given the bitter wind and we headed for a low spot, along a natural drainage course that I hope would offer some respite from the gales.
At lunch, with the camels hobbled and grazing, we discussed some more scenarios Rio might encounter, then mounted up for the return ride. About half way home I announced I wanted to get some time in on Ibrahim (who’s not trained to couche yet), so we untied him from Richard and, standing up on a bucket found out in the field, I jumped up in the saddle. What a great job the "I-Man" did! Had I planned a little better, and packed a blanket, I would’ve ridden much longer, but after about five minutes on that old wooden saddle, my legs had had enough. Still, it provided some good footage, I hope, for Leah who was on the ground filming while Rio rode Richard and Ibrahim and I followed down the cattle trails. Will update on Rio and Leah’s documentary, as details become available.
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This month, the camels and I will be putting on the uniform of the U.S. Army, circa 1856, as we spread the gospel of the historic U.S. Army Camel Corps. Thursday and Friday of this week, February 7/8, we’ll be in Kingsville, for the John E. Conner Museum at Texas A&M University-Kingsville’s annual Living History event.
On February 27th, I head to Ft. Lancaster State Historical Site for a day of programs for school kids visiting from "nearby" Sanderson, Texas. Nearby, in West Texas terms can be a hundred miles. This beautiful old frontier fort is in ruins and is still almost as remote as it was in its heyday a hundred and fifty years ago. If ever your travels take you through this part of Texas, drop down off of Interstate 10 onto scenic loop 290 and visit. You’ll be glad you did.
I’ve been getting quite a few inquiries about trekking in Texas this spring. Groups and dates are being put together, so now’s a good time to join up if you’ve ever wanted to visit Monahans Sandhills State Park or the Big Bend region. Call or email for specifics.
Also, Texas Camel Corps is in the current issue of U.S. Airways’ in-flight magazine. If any of you are in airports or on U.S. Airways flights, check it out. You can see it online, too, at: http://usairwaysmag.com/2008_02/. Click on "Over the Hump."
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Finally, I’ve got a plethora of power adapters, used for converting U.S. electronic appliances to local plugs in virtually all points on the globe. Over the seven years I’ve been traveling to Egypt I’ve had to replace my adapter a couple of times (having given them away, lost them, etc) and the Wal-Mart in Waco doesn’t sell, of course, just the one I need. I’ve literally got at least two for every continent! If any of you out there in cyberland have travels coming up and need just such an item, I’d be happy to give any of my duplicates to you. If you’re headed to Great Britain, Ireland, Africa, Hong Kong, Singapore, Northern Europe, Australia, New Zealand, Fiji or China, I’ve got your connection!
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Thanks as always for your interest in my camels.
Doug
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